The Petra Paradox: Challenges Amidst the Beauty

Petra, also known as the ‘Rose City’ and the ‘Lost City’, is a must-visit destination for many people. But what’s it really like to visit?

Of course, Petra is a beautiful place due to its stunning architecture and archaeological marvels, but it comes with its challenges.

In this blog post, I’ll discuss the incredible beauty that made this one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, but I’ll also talk about the challenges of visiting. So, come along with me on a journey through the Petra Paradox, where you’ll see that even with all the challenges, the beauty of this extraordinary place shines bright.

The Beauty of Petra

Petra is undeniably beautiful; walking through the Siq, a geological wonder sculpted by tectonic forces, is a breathtaking experience. With each turn, anticipation builds until finally you catch sight of the Treasury’s magnificent façade. It’s a moment that leaves your jaw on the floor, wondering how on earth the Nabataeans crafted such a marvel around two millennia ago.

Aside from the impressive rock carvings, there is just so much colour in Petra. Many photographs make it seem like a sea of orange, but look at this cave wall and ceiling! I would happily hang that in my home and call it art, it’s just stunning.

I was taken aback by how big the Monastery is, it’s not what I was expecting. The sheer size and intricate details are a treat for the eyes, and make the hike up the 800+ steps absolutely worthwhile.

If you look closely at the top right of the Monastery in the below image, you can just about see someone stood on top with their arms raised. I believe there are steps leading to the top of this monument that are barriered off with “No Climbing” signs, but I would not recommend doing this unless you want to be escorted off the site by police and have your ticket confiscated.

Petra’s beauty is undeniable, but it can be a challenging place to explore. From the moment you step foot in Petra, you’re faced with obstacles that test your patience, resolve and determination.

The Heat

The first of the challenges is the heat. When you’re a northerner used to wearing t-shirts in 10 degrees Celsius, you tend to find yourself wanting to peel your skin off when the mercury shifts anywhere above 27.

Dress appropriately for the heat; I chose long, loose trousers and a short-sleeve cotton t-shirt to stay cool and protected from the sun.

Note: You absolutely can wear vests and shorts in Petra, although it’s advised to bring something to cover up with for when you’re in the town of Wadi Musa.

The heat is one thing, add to that the physical exertion, and even the main trail feels like a slog (thankfully the Siq has plenty of shade). We hiked up countless steps including some very questionable ones that are no longer deserving of the name! And yet, it is this very struggle that will have you celebrating at the end of each trail, wearing your sweat and weary legs as a badge of honour.

The biggest thing to remember is to take breaks when you need to, and make sure you stay hydrated!

The Crowds

Crowds can be a struggle but are obviously to be expected when visiting a wonder of the world. On our first day in Petra, I think we arrived around the same time as the tour groups, so our walk through the Siq was a bit busier than it would be if you went for opening time. Naturally, tour guides will stop their groups to explain certain features, but you will also have to dodge some visitors that will abruptly stop in the middle of the path to take a break or take pictures.
If you’re stopping for any reason, just be mindful of the people around you.

Golf Carts

You certainly need to be mindful of your surroundings in the Siq if you don’t want to get wiped out by a golf cart!

These little buggies take visitors from the entry gate to the Treasury, and while they are a fantastic way to keep a portion of the site accessible, having to dodge out of the way of them in the narrow Siq does get a little tiresome.

The Sales Pitches

I think the biggest thing that took away from the beauty of Petra for me was the seemingly never ending sales pitches. While I appreciate the need to make a living, I absolutely do not appreciate being hounded to buy something.

The entry gate to Petra is essentially a marketplace, there are a range of shops selling water, snacks, and souvenirs such as Indiana Jones style hats and whips. Thankfully nobody here was pushy, we just heard the odd price being called out as we walked past.

Once you start making your way to the Siq, you will pass the stables, and have several people ask you if you want a horse ride and so you find yourself saying nothing but “no, thank you” for a short while as you pass other horse handlers (FYI: While the horse ride is included in the price of your ticket, you are expected to tip at least 10 JOD at the end). You will also get this same experience on the way out as well.

On the Al-Khubtha trail, there are a few stalls here and there, but it’s on the Monastery trail where the scene intensifies. Stalls flank both sides of the trail in some parts, while vendors try to entice visitors with calls of ‘good price’ and ‘nice gift’.

We did like the look of a few items when we were passing stalls, but any time we stopped to have a closer look, we’d be collared almost immediately.

On the Monastery trail, you’ll be asked if you want a donkey ride, or a “taxi” as they are sometimes referred to, and when you’re in front of the Treasury, you’re bombarded with offers for camel rides and photo ops.

Animals

On the subject of animals, we actually saw an incident where a woman had purchased a camel ride from the front of the Treasury and while she was being led along the main trail towards the centre of Petra by a child, her camel reared up and near enough threw her to the ground.

We chose not to ride any animals during our time in Petra; there are serious concerns about animal welfare in the site. Owners offer rides for low prices, making it attractive to tourists, but the low price means that the owners need a higher volume of customers, and it’s the animals who will suffer for it.

Litter

It was really disappointing to see so much litter in Petra, there were bins which had overflown and so the litter was scattered on the ground. On the trails, you could see where bottles of water and the like had been dropped off the side into little valleys.
We even came across some little puppies sleeping with the rubbish, please make sure you dispose of any rubbish appropriately. It’s worthwhile bringing a carrier bag or something similar to carry any rubbish away in case there aren’t any bins nearby.

Final Thoughts

Despite all the challenges I’ve listed out in this post, Petra is beautiful and is an amazing place to visit. The point of this blog post is to a. vent a bit, and b. prepare you for your visit to Petra so you go in with realistic expectations.

At the end of the day, Petra is a place of contrasts – a paradox where beauty and challenges intertwine. Our experiences are shaped not just by what we experience but how we choose to perceive them. Just as the Nabataeans carved beauty from rock, we can choose to see the beauty amongst the challenges.

It is what it is. But, it will be what you make it

Pat Summitt